The Amalfi Coast is the pastel-coloured crown jewel of Campania. Expertly stacked fishing villages spill down the cliffsides, charming coves punctuate the coastline and the world’s jet-set flock here come summer for sublime Italian food, fine wine and the postcard-primed setting. In other words, this slice of the Sorrentine Peninsula is nothing short of iconic. Summer is undoubtedly the region’s most sought-after season and it should come as no surprise that the hotels fill quickly in June, July and August. Yet if you have your heart set on visiting the UNESCO-listed Divina Costiera (Divine Coast), it’s worth considering a different season. Late September to mid-October represents the sweet spot for visiting the Amalfi Coast in autumn; the summer crowds and scorching heat have dissipated, but bars, restaurants and hotels remain open for business (many close at the end of October). Be the first to footprint the sand of Maiori Beach, hike lesser-trodden paths in the Lattari Mountains and enjoy uninterrupted views with an Aperol Spritz in hand during autumn on the Amalfi Coast.
The Festivities
The Amalfi Coast shows no sign of slowing down when it comes to festivities in autumn. Food lovers should plan a late September sojourn to coincide with Positano’s Festa del Pesce, an annual seafood festival accompanied by parades and musical performances, while keen oenophiles (wine lovers) can indulge their tastebuds at Sorrento’s much-loved Sagra dell’Uva di Priora (Grape Festival). Scala’s Festa della Castagna (Chestnut Festival) is another favourite, featuring themed culinary offerings such as chestnut flour gnocchi and chestnut cream-filled desserts. In October, Praiano hosts the Sound of the Gods festival, an open-air concert that takes place along the Sentiero degli Dei pathway. You’d be hard pressed to find a more impressive (and dramatic) setting to accompany the classical music, and it’s worth the slightly strenuous hike beforehand.
The Food
Along with the aforementioned food festivals (known as sagra), the Amalfi coast in autumn undoubtedly lives up to Italy’s lofty gastronomic reputation. Lemons are as much a part of the Amalfi Coast’s landscape as the precipitous cliffs and rainbow-hued houses. Used abundantly in local recipes (such as Limoncello and ricotta-filled ravioli), the two main varieties are Ovale di Sorrento and Sfusato Costa di Amalfi, both of which are cultivated on the hillside terraces. For those with a super sweet-tooth, the iconic Delizie al Limone (Lemon Delight) combines lemon cream and Limoncello syrup to create a sugary, lemony cloud-like dessert. Unsurprisingly, seafood also reigns supreme on menus, with specialities including scialatielli ai frutti di mare (seafood spaghetti), pezzogna (blue-spotted seabream) and totani e patate (red squid and potatoes).
The Sightseeing
The weather remains mild and pleasant on the Amalfi Coast in autumn and with diminished hordes of tourists, it’s much easier to bag a table at the best bars and restaurants. There’s also much less competition when it comes to finding a slice of sand on the heavenly beaches; sun yourself in peace on a vibrant, pin-striped deck chair, or take to the waves with island hopping between Capri and Li Galli Islands. The sunsets and sunrises are just as epic at this time of year and with the sun rising around 7am and setting sometime after 6pm, you won’t have to rise too early to see the sky streaked with crimson and ochre. Autumn on the Amalfi Coast is also prime time for hikers, with temperatures cool enough to trek up the (at times) vertiginous mountain paths. The Lattari Mountains are laced with well-trodden trails, including the Sentiero dei Limoni (Path of Lemons) between Minori and Maiori, and the ancient stairs of Ravello.
Written by Luisa Watts