Mountains, Monasteries and Royal Hotels: An Introduction to Ladakh

Head back to the airport this morning with your private driver to catch a quick one-and-a-half-hour internal flight to Leh, in the north of India. On arrival you’ll be transferred to the charming village of Stok, less than 30 minutes away. Your home for the next three nights is a palace that once belonged to the rulers of the Namgyal dynasty. Built in 1820, this beautifully preserved fortress is a splendid example of the architecture of the high valleys of the western Himalayas. The building's austere appearance conceals complex interiors with ornate woodwork and a vibrant palette of colours. The palace now features a hotel that has retained all of its ancient charm while seamlessly infusing modern comforts. Dinner here is an event in and of itself. The in-house chefs use ingredients sourced from nearby markets to create a delicious cuisine that draws on the traditions of Ladakh, Tibet and India. Once you’ve settled in and freshened up, head into the historic centre of Leh with a knowledgable local guide. Stroll through the ochre streets lined with adobe houses, where intrepid hikers have replaced the Silk Road merchants of yesteryear. You can also visit the Sankar Gompa monastery to observe puja (offering to Buddha), as well as the bustling bazaar near the Jama Masjid mosque.

Make sure to fuel up at breakfast as you have a big day ahead: today you’re visiting three monasteries peppered throughout the Himalayas. Set off early in the morning with your private driver-guide for the Thiksey monastery. This Gelugpa gompa (scriptural school) is the largest in Ladakh, and houses both monks and nuns who hold morning services here. Thiksey is also renowned for its murals and tankas (paintings on canvas), as well as its privileged views across the Indus Valley. Enjoy a rustic breakfast overlooking this beautiful setting before heading off to the next monastery of the day: the 17th-century Hemis monastery. This is where Ladakh’s most important gompa of the Kagyüpa Drukpa school is located. The buildings of the inner courtyard have splendid galleries and painted wooden frames depicting the mahâsiddhas – the name given to Buddhist ascetics who seek perfection. You can also visit a lovely museum that details the principles and symbols of Tantric Buddhism. For lunch, tuck into a delicious picnic on the banks of the Indus, a huge river flowing from Mount Kailash to the Arabian Sea which India is named after. The third and final monastery you’ll visit today is the 16th-century Stakna monastery, which is located on the top of a rocky hill. This monastery once housed the royal family in luxurious flats and still houses one of the richest libraries in Ladakh. Head back to your hotel this evening for a hearty meal and good night’s rest.

It’s another day in the Indian Himalayas, which, naturally means another monastery. This morning you’ll head to Spituk, which has been a monastic site since the 11th century and a Gelugpa establishment since the 15th. This gompa houses a large statue of Palden Lhamo, Tibet's tutelary goddess and fierce protector of Buddhism and Buddhists. From here you’ll embark on a leisurely hike along peaceful farm tracks down to the village. Enjoy lunch by the river and take the opportunity to discuss the sites of the day with your knowledgeable guide. You have the rest of this afternoon back at the hotel, which gives you the perfect opportunity to discover the museum section of the palace.

You’re back on the road today, travelling two hours northeast to Nurla, a small village nestled in the Indus Valley. Settle in for two nights in a charming hotel located in the heart of town. Send the rest of today relaxing in your new environment and, when dinnertime comes around, tuck into some delicious Ladakhi cuisine at the hotel’s restaurant.

Head out this morning with your private driver-guide to the 11th-century Lamayuru monastery, which practiced the oral tradition of Kagyüpa Drikung. The monastery is renowned as a site of peace and the Muslims of Kashmir have always respected its integrity. It's a place where pacts and treaties were negotiated, and the most hardened villains could seek forgiveness and escape death. The current buildings date from the early 20th century and houses 200 monks. After a private tour of the monastery, continue on to the charming village of Temisgam in the Sham valley. Stroll through barley fields to Tingmosgang Castle, where a treaty was signed in 1684 to establish the border that still exists today between Tibet and Ladakh.

Today you’re on the move again. After a hearty breakfast at your hotel, travel one hour to the lovely town of Nimmu. Your home for the next two nights is a beautifully designed guesthouse nestled in an orchard. Spend the rest of today relaxing in this charming setting and enjoy some traditional Ladakhi food for dinner.

Set off this morning with your private driver-guide to discover the local sights. The 11th-century Likir gompa, perched elegantly on a hilltop, is a guardian of the ancient Kadampa tradition, which the Gelugpa Kagyüpa schools originate from. It is here that a new generation of monks learn about the sacred texts by reading aloud together. There is also a museum where you can admire a fine collection of tankas (Tibetan Buddhist paintings). You’ll then have the opportunity to visit the Alchi Monastery, which also dates back to the 11th century. Here you can discover the Kashmiri influence of the three main buildings: the Dukhang (great hall), Temple of Manjushri and Sumsteg. The walls here are adorned with some of the oldest wall paintings in Ladakh, while some of the chortens (Tibetan Buddhist monuments) date back to the 13th century.

Today it’s time to swap the villages of Ladakh with the bright lights of Delhi. Enjoy one last breakfast at your hotel in Nimmu before travelling an hour to the airport in Leh to catch a one-and-a-half-hour flight to Delhi. Your home for tonight is a legendary hotel of the British Raj, built back in 1931. Every nook and cranny breathes elegance, from the luxury of the lounges to the comfort of the suites. It was here that the English entertained royals, negotiated the independence of Pakistan and dazzled travellers from all over the world. The hotel also houses India’s most important collection of colonial art, as well as a splendid restaurant specialising in South Asian cuisine. Spend the rest of today relaxing in your new environment and settle in for a good night’s rest before heading home tomorrow.